Welcome Suzanne!

September 4 - 21st

Each time our guests leave us there is a day or two of adjustment where things feel a little too quiet. This makes sense because there are fewer people on the boat and we are leaving busier areas, like Kos or Bodrum, and moving on to those that are less so. This was the case when Neil’s sister Suzanne left us three days ago on September 18th.

One of the peaceful anchorages where we stayed for four nights

The quiet anchorage we are in now is Kasiliki Koyu, a large bay east of Bodrum in the Bay of Gokova, and it is one of the first bays we visited after checking into Turkey. This will most likely be one of the last we are in as well after 90 days spent in this beautiful country. We will head back to Bodrum to check out on September 24th and then begin our journey northwest through Greece towards Montenegro where we will keep the boat until the end of April 2025.

Welcome Suzanne!

Back when Suzanne decided to book a trip to see us in Turkey for two weeks, we were looking forward to having another guest aboard. It had been three weeks since Julia left us. With Suzanne’s arrival we repeated the pick up procedure, taking the dinghy to the fuel dock in Bodrum marina and meeting her at the taxi. It was a gorgeous sunny day, but certainly not as hot as it was when Julia arrived in mid-July. Change is definitely in the air!

Our goal with Suzanne aboard was to share with her some of the areas that we have come to love in the Turkish Riviera. By now we have our favourite anchorages, towns, markets, bakeries and ice cream shops, of course! We were looking forward to enjoying a few new experiences and hopefully a few good sails. One of the new experiences for Suzanne and I was the trip to the ruins at Ephesus. Another, for all of us, was the first thunderstorm while on the boat and witnessing a waterspout travelling across the gulf (thankfully at a safe distance from where we were anchored!).

Catal Ada

I booked our Ephesus tour through Chidim and her colleagues at Direct Tours in Bodrum. Chidim was the very kind woman who assisted us with finding and booking a dog groomer for Finnegan. Neil volunteered to stay on the boat in Bodrum with Finnegan so that Suzanne and I were free to take the tour together. At 5:45 a.m. we all loaded into the dinghy and Neil dropped us off in the marina near the Direct Tours office where we were to be picked up at 6:00 a.m. and taken to the tour bus. We were on time, but the driver was about 25 minutes late. No worries, it was interesting watching the city slowly coming to life in the early morning hours, while some late night party-goers were just heading back to their hotels. Bodrum is known as a party place where the music does not stop until 4:30 a.m. 

Ephesus was a city in Ancient Greece located in what is now Izmir Province in Turkey. Built in the 10th century BC, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015 and is one of the most well-preserved ancient cities in the Mediterranean. Ephesus is a two hour bus ride from Bodrum and our trip included stops for breakfast and lunch. We also visited a Turkish Delight factory store with many tasty samples (we purchased a few), and a jewelry store selling the gemstone zultanite (which we did not purchase, although they were beautiful!). Our guide, Emma, was full of energy and did her very best to convey as much information about the site as possible. It was somewhat crowded, but it is September so it was most likely not as busy as compared to July and August.  

The Library of Celsus

Suzanne at Ephesus

One of the highlights at Ephesus was The Great Theatre, the largest theatre from the ancient world, but we were only able to view it from the sidelines as it is under restoration. We walked along the white marble roads to view the Temple of Artemis, the Library of Celsus and the marble relief of Nike, the Greek goddess of victory. The final stop on our tour was the site that is said to be the last home of the Virgin Mary and the place where Saint John wrote the Gospel of John. It really was spectacular to walk through a place of such incredible historical significance.

The Temple of Artemis

Nike

The Great Theatre

The next day we were excited to get underway again and the winds were favourable for our trip towards the region of Datca. Suzanne enjoyed her second great sail of the trip as we reached 10 knots. We were surprised at our first stop (where we hoped to see the turtles again) to see the normally quiet anchorage loaded with gulets. Apparently it was “Yacht Week” and the many gulets were loaded with young adults enjoying everything the area had to offer. However, since it was quite windy all night long, we were spared what would have otherwise been a night of loud music and partying. 

One of the many gulets that people charter in Turkey

Enjoying life on the foredeck

Datca was as beautiful as our last visits there. Suzanne enjoyed the more laid back atmosphere as compared to Bodrum. We were able to do a bit of shopping for souvenirs, groceries and the almond cookies I love from the bakery. Neil was also able to pick up a couple of small parts to repair the auto helm and temporarily fix our water pump. It will have to wait until we get to Kos, Greece for a new part for a full repair. Finnegan enjoyed a cool dip to beat the heat!

Okay dad, I'm done!

Shake!

That's better!

The weather took a turn as a system moved in during the night bringing with it the first rain Neil and I have seen since we left Italy at the beginning of June. I am not exaggerating; we have not had one drop of rain in over three months! We experienced thunderstorms moving through in the distance and rain hitting the deck of the boat (a noise Finnegan was not too crazy about). Awakening early at 4 a.m., we were on watch to ensure that the “donkey” in the boat who anchored too close to us was not going to swing into our boat and to ensure that other boats did not drag anchor in the wind and swell.

With the sunrise came an incredible sky and an even more spectacular waterspout moving along the gulf outside of the protected bay. Suzanne spied it coming around the point and we quickly grabbed cameras to capture images of the amazing site. We were not worried about our safety as we were far enough away and not in its direct path, but I was worried for a people in a few boats that had set out a bit earlier and that we could still see in the distance. Thankfully, none were affected. The waterspout seemed to possess incredible energy and took a while before it dissipated, only to be followed by a second one. I really could not believe it when Suzanne said, “There’s another one!” It was not as well-formed as the first and disappeared more quickly. Shortly after, the sun was shining in a beautiful blue sky so we pulled anchor and headed on our way towards Kochini Koyu.

Incredible sky all morning

Waterspout in Datca

I recently asked Neil where his favourite place is to anchor from those we have been to in Turkey. He chose Kochini, mainly because it has beautiful water, a long beach and paths for walking, a market that is held a couple of days a week and a grocery store about a 20 minute walk from the beach, a good restaurant and bar, and it is a protected anchorage. Although there are many places we have loved, I would agree with his choice. While there, Suzanne and I were able to enjoy the food market and purchase very tasty cheeses and olives from a personable young salesman at the cheese counter. He did his very best to converse with us in English and we shared a few laughs as we tried to communicate.  

The market in Kochin, in the Datca region

At the market in Kochini

To and from the market, we enjoyed a beautiful walk along the paths lined with bougainvillea plants and kittens and cats of all colours were hiding about. 

Beautiful sister-in-law and bougainvillea

Kittens and cats are everywhere!

(and Suzanne took a photo of every one!)

Suzanne learned to paddle board and took to it immediately. She also learned to jump off the boat into the water, something she was a little apprehensive about but has now mastered!

Paddle boarding in Kochini Koyu

Bozburun was our next stop. If you remember from a previous blog, we took Julia there and it is the town that has the most incredible almond croissants, so I was excited to go there for a repeat! Again the water was warmest there and we enjoyed swimming, hanging out on the floaties, and taking dinghy rides to stony beaches. It is definitely another treasure in Turkey.

Our happy boy!

We were visited by the ice cream boat and he informed us that it was the last weekend they would be out. Needless to say, we jumped at the chance for ice cream!

Last call from the ice cream boat!

Here, like in most places, we finish off our afternoons with glasses of ice cold pink wine and a few very competitive games of Triominos. I think Suzanne was the overall winner which meant she was buying ice cream (who made that rule?).

Triominos and FaceTime calls to home

After two nights at anchor in Bozburun, it was time to begin the trek back towards Bodrum to ensure Suzanne was there in time to do some shopping and catch her flight home. 

Gulet under the super moon

Knidos was our last stop so that Suzanne could see the ruins. The wind was on our nose for the entire three hour trip and we arrived to a very full anchorage. After a tour around, we decided there really was no room for us to safely anchor with the winds up, so we started to head out when I noticed that one of the gulets was pulling anchor. We turned around and went back in to find a good spot. In short time other boats left and we were able to re-anchor in a safer area. Thankfully, the winds dissipated throughout the day and we had a very enjoyable stay. 

Knidos

Last stop, Bodrum. The day was spent shopping with Suzanne for momentos and a Turkish carpet! She found the perfect one for her kitchen back home. I absolutely love it. We each bought some silk pillow covers as well from our friend Mustafa at his carpet shop. 

Suzanne's new carpet

For dinner that night, we found a place with good reviews on Google. Upon arriving at Mudavim, we were surprised to see that the restaurant was so busy, but the incredibly kind host told us not to worry, he would find us a table. In short order, we were seated at one of the best tables in the house (or should I say on the beach) right at the water’s edge.

Dinner at Mudavim in Bodrum

It was a gorgeous night, perfect to complete our amazing visit with Suzanne. I love that no one complains that Finnegan is with us and that he is curled up on a chair beside me at the table while we enjoy dinner. Likewise, no one complains or comments when we take him grocery shopping with us!

Always such a good boy!

Super shopper!

The mezze were some of the best we have eaten in Turkey so far and the lamb kabobs were excellent. Neil has decided that we need to go back in a couple of days for our last night out in Turkey. Suzanne’s trip would not be complete without having a doner Turkish (donair) meat wrap for lunch on her last day. 

Suzanne in Bodrum

Sibling Love

Sadly, all good things must come to an end and we had to say goodbye to Suzanne in the marina at 3:30 a.m. to grab the taxi to the airport. We really enjoyed her visit. Neil, Finnegan and I are on our own again until our next guest arrives. We are so looking forward to Ben’s visit on October 12th in Greece!

Bodrum anchorage

We are spending our last few days in beautiful Turkey before we have to say goodbye to the gorgeous turquoise water, the endless sunny skies, stunning sunsets, the friendly, welcoming people, and the amazing life experience we have had in this area of the country. As we move towards new destinations and adventures, we are leaving behind the sense of security and predictability to our days that we have had while staying here for three months. We are looking forward to the change of pace and hope for smooth sailing ahead.

Datca

Swimming with stern line to tie to rocks at shore

Evening shore-run

Hanging out on the foredeck, texting friends at home

Dinghy ride in Datca

Sunset in Kochini Koyu