The Greek Isles - Winds Take Us to Unexpected Places.

 June 20th - 25th

On the morning of June 20th, we leave our anchorage in Paros with a plan to sail to the small Greek island called Kato Koufanisi. This is certainly not one of the more popular islands one reads about in the travel magazines, but is a very small island off the southeast corner of Naxos. After looking at wind predictions and the necessity of getting Al and MP to an island from which they can catch a ferry or a flight back to Athens by June 25th, and our longer term goal of getting to Turkey by July 3rd, we make a plan for the next few days. Our original plan was to sail to Ios and Santorini, but with the high winds coming from the north, it makes it difficult to sail from those more southerly islands back north to our last Greek island stop of Kos. So, we decide to pass on that plan and look for more comfortable options. The route now is Kato Koufanisi, Amorgos, Levitha Islet, Pserimos Island, and then Kos. We really do not know what to expect, but we read about quaint islands, peaceful anchorages, and beautiful clear water. 

Kato Koufanisi, Detis Bay - June 20th - 21st

The sail today is about 4 hours and we arrive at the island in some heavy winds. The anchorage we originally choose is too windy, so we head back to a more protected bay. The water is fantastic, so clear and warm, and we all enjoy a swim. Finnegan spends time sniffing around the beach and is not disappointed by all the great smells! Where there's a path, the guys must take it and this is no exception. Neil and Al decide to hike over the hill and are greeted by goats, who seem to be the only inhabitants on the island. Al comments on the seemingly endless stone fence walls that snake their way around every mountainside we see. With no people living in the area, we are curious as to their purpose. Are they there for the goats, or are they left from times of old when people farmed the area? Hopefully we can solve this mystery at some point. In the evening, we are greeted by the full moon over the water after a beautiful sunset. Dinner with friends on the boat tastes better than ever!

Amorgos Island, Nikouria Inlet - June 21st - 23rd

In the morning, it is windy again. However, the boat handles it well and after a few hours we are in the most beautiful and protected bay at Nikouria Beach. Just ask for a beach bar and chances are you will find one, even in the most secluded places. So yes, we are excited to see the cutest little beach bar on the shore. There are only 4 boats in the anchorage. We read on Navily (an app for boaters that provides info on anchorages, marinas and more) that there is a small hotel on the shore opposite the beach bar and a boat that ferries people back and forth every hour between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. This is great news to us because we think about renting a car and touring the island the next day. We put on our bathing suits and take the dinghy to the beach to enjoy a few cocktails and a swim. There are several goats wandering around, some even attempting to enter the little beach bar! Finnegan does not really know what to make of them, but I keep him close by since they have horns!

Adonis, the beach bar owner, (yes that's his name) tells us he has to buy a permit for a certain amount of space on the beach and he has built the bar himself. He is a friendly guy and tells us we absolutely must tour the island, promising that he will keep an eye on our dinghy on the beach for the day. As well, he connects us to someone who can rent us a vehicle and MP has us organized with a car soon thereafter. Sunset is enjoyed on the foredeck after talking to one of the Canadians on the yacht next to us. They are from Montreal and keep the boat in Rhodes when it is not in use. It is quite a surprise to see a boat pull into the anchorage with a Canadian flag since there are only 5 boats here in total.

In the evening, we are greeted by the most amazing full moon rising over the mountains behind us. So spectacular! The photo does not capture its true beauty.

We enjoy a little bit of a slower pace in the morning since we do not have to be at the ferry dock until 11 a.m. All goes according to plan and we pick up the rental car and begin our journey. We are given a map and some instructions from the car rental rep and she tells us to park only in designated parking lots and "don't hit any goats". Neil, Al and I laugh, but judging by the look on her face, she is serious! Driving the roads up and down the steep mountainside is not my idea of fun, but Al handles the driving very well. However, this does not keep me from fretting and gasping from time to time! We soon learn why we are told not to hit any goats. They are wandering around everywhere, and some are right at the side of the road. We drive to a small fishing village called Katapola and explore the port.

Next, we are off to the end of the island to see a shipwreck on a beach called Kalotaritisa. The ship is called Olympia and from the internet we learn that it was a commercial ship that was trying to find shelter from a storm in February 1980 and unsuccessfully tried to anchor. According to the story, the ship's crew was made up of pirates heading from Cyprus to Greece. 

"What do you think Al? Can we get her shipshape again?"

This end of the island is a farming area. On the way we find a restaurant we go back to later for an excellent lunch of lamb stew and goat with lemon sauce, two local specialties. At the end of our meal, MP is greeted by a friend. Luckily she does not have to share her food!

The last stop on the island is the most amazing. It is the Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chozoviotissa perched high up on the side of the mountain 300 meters about sea level. It is the second oldest monastery in Greece built in the ninth century (812-813 AD) and renovated in 1088 by Byzantine Emperor Alexios A. Kominos. It is only visible from the sea. It is 40 meters long and five meters wide and consists of eight different levels or floors. The monastery was created as an ode to the Grace of Panagia, known as the Virgin Mary, which is the patron saint of the island. Needless to say, it is spectacular. 

                

Al, MP and I climb the approximately 300 steps, with Neil volunteering to stay behind with Finnegan since dogs are not allowed. There is a dress code to adhere to; visitors are asked to dress moderately with pants for men and long dresses for women. MP’s research ensures we are prepared, but we notice that people have left clothing on the walls outside the monastery for others to use during their visit if needed. The climb is a windy one! Once inside, we learn from a monk in training that at one point in history there were 30 monks living there, but now there are only two. After 3 years in training, this young man has not yet decided if he is going to take his vows, but he lives there as well. He is a wealth of information and it is very interesting listening to the history he has to share. Our visit comes to an end after we are served a glass of cold water and psimeni raki, a local liqueur. (We are not permitted to take photos inside)

We catch the ferry back to the beach bar at 7 pm, worn out after an amazing day. True to his word, Adonis has kept his eye on the dinghy and it is safe and sound where we left it. Oh yes, we do learn that the stone walls are built to designate property lines and some are to keep animals in pasture. Many are very old and the property is no longer inhabited, at least by people.

There are two boats in the anchorage. Ours is on the left. 

(If you want to read more about the monastery, you can go to the website: https://amorgos.gr/explore-amorgos/the-monastery-of-hozoviotissa/ )

Levithia Islet: June 23rd - 24th

Another early start to the day and we are off to a small islet between Amorgos island and Kos. We decide to stay here because it breaks up the journey into smaller portions and allows us to enjoy the day in a new place. The exit from our idyllic anchorage is a rude awakening with the wind on our nose and waves that are quite large (we estimate 2-3 meters at times), but they are rolling waves and are off the rear quarter, so not as bad as if we were pounding into them. Again, we feel completely safe and secure because the boat handles it so well. Nevertheless, we all put on our life jackets for the trip. Once we are around the point of the island and are away from the effects of the katabatic winds, the sailing is fantastic! (Katabatic winds are higher density air that is being pulled down the side of the high cliffs of the islands to lower density air; sometimes called acrobatic winds). 

We choose to grab a mooring ball in a one of the three anchorages in the bay because it provides us with enough room and is a little less windy than the others. The place is a little crowded with boats, but Neil and Al manage to secure a good spot. We are excited to learn from a guy on one of the fishing boats that the restaurant over the hill is open. Al takes the dinghy on a mission to sort out a dinner reservation for us, while Neil, MP and I enjoy a change of pace to watch the F1 race on TV. 

Success! Al has secured us a reservation for dinner after he has spoken to the restaurant owner. It is not really a dinner reservation, but a reservation of two fish for us for dinner as he only has a limited number of fresh fish each day. The only inhabitants of the islet are a family living here who have had the land in the family for 200 years. Two brothers run the property with their families at present. The restaurant serves food that they mainly raise or grow themselves and they raise goats, grow vegetables and grain, and have olive trees and more. And of course, they fish. The farm is self-sustaining with power generated by wind and solar. The only guests are people who come by boat as we have done. The owners also maintain the mooring balls in the anchorage and have a concrete dock for the dinghies. Just being in such a secluded place and having the opportunity to enjoy learning about how others live their lives is an incredible experience and one we will not soon forget.

Finnegan got to enjoy some fish and lamb too!

The home and restaurant of our hosts. We sat on the patio behind the wall by the flag.

The path back to the anchorage

Pserimos Island: June 24th - 25th

Our last anchorage in Greece. Pserimos Island is just north of the island of Kos and west of Bodrum, Turkey. We anchor in another absolutely gorgeous bay with the crystal clear water we have come to expect. No beach bar in sight, but Neil and Al soon discover that a hike over the hill of about 1 km will produce what they are looking for. Since it is too hot for Finnegan to walk up the mountain path in the middle of the day, MP and I decide to stay on the boat to enjoy some girl time and a swim. (We are blaming Finnegan, hee hee). The guys find their bar and apparently the other side of the mountain is busy with tourist activity. Before they head back, they text us to see if we need anything. We ask them to find a market to get a few things if possible, like some fresh basil and tomatoes. They arrive back with one bottle of pink wine! LOL Not what was on our list, but we accept it. As the afternoon fades, we enjoy another swim, mojitos, and some great rum drink Al made, on the swim platform, and some great laughs. Dinner in the cockpit, and sitting on the bow enjoying the stars completes another fantastic day!

Kos: June 25th

Kos is a more populated Greek island and has many ferries back and forth each day to Bodrum, Turkey. Al and MP have a flight for Athens scheduled for the early evening, so we will head to the marina to drop them off. We plan to stay in the marina for a couple of days while we sort out our entry to Turkey with our “agent”, Ozgur. It is a very well-maintained marina and we receive docking assistance from the “mooring men”. After so many days at anchor, this feels like old times! They are efficient and friendly and we get the boat secured in no time. This is also in large part due to Neil’s excellent manoeuvring skills. 

Neil and I are treated to a last lunch with our friends before we have to say goodbye. I know this time was coming, but it is really emotional saying goodbye to, not just friends, but friends who are a part of “home”. Al and MP will be spending an evening and full day in Athens for a bit of touring before flying back to Toronto. They will be missed!