Heat and Meltemi in Greece!

Written June 15th, 2024

Boy is it hot! From the locals in Greece we have learned that the heat we are experiencing is due to the lack of rain here all winter. As we all know from the news over the past few years, Europe gets very hot in the summer months. If it is this hot now (37 degrees), what will it be like in July and August? Finnegan and I are not overly excited to find out, but we cannot complain because we have the beautiful Aegean Sea off our back deck and we can jump in whenever we want. Finnegan used to hate the water, but he is willing to let us put him in, using his harness, for a quick dip and then out again. He always appears so refreshed after.

We spend a few days anchored off the town of Adamantas, Milos while we await our friends Al and MP to join us for a two week adventure. In preparation, Neil and I tour the town, enjoy an authentic souvlaki in a pita, not to mention the most amazing seafood meal I have ever had. It is a steamed Monkfish. Outstanding! The view of the harbour from our table is pretty awesome as well. We scout out an ATV rental place so that we can use them to tour the island the next day. Milos is a volcanic island in an area called the Cyclades. The Venus de Milo and the Poseidon of Melos, and the Asclepius of Milos were all found on the island. It is famous for its stunning beaches, crystal-clear water and villages that are so gorgeous.

A day of maintenance is in order, so we prepare to spend a day on board taking care of a few things. It is the right decision because we get our first taste of the "meltemi" winds Greece is known for in the summer months. Researching online, I find out:

The Meltemi is the northerly dry wind that prevails in the Aegean from May to September and reaches its peak from mid-July to mid-August. It has been mentioned by several ancient Greek authors and the myth goes that the ancients were suffering from the heat, so they asked for some divine intervention, and the Gods blessed them with the Meltemi…. The origin of the word, however, is Latin and comes from “mal tempo” which means bad weather. It is created by the combination of a high system over the Balkans that meets a low system from Asia Minor. Typically, it lasts for half a week, it calms down for the remainder of the week and starts again the next one. 

When anchored in the bay at Adamantas, we wake up to winds of about 20 knots after a night of absolutely no wind at all. We are up early and are on deck when we see the boat beside us dragging its anchor. No one is on deck. There is nothing we can do to help because it is not safe for us to get into our dinghy due to the swell. Finally, someone is on deck just in time as the boat is quickly heading towards the beach. The anchor catches hold again, but the couple on board decide to lift anchor and move on to another anchorage. It is not without a lot of drama! It must have been quite scary for them. I am hoping we are never in that situation, but we are always cautious about how much anchor chain we put out in all conditions.

Al and MP arrive on Saturday afternoon alerting us with a call from their cell phones while they stand on a small pier looking out at our boat. Neil dinghies over to retrieve them, suitcases and all, and we are well into socializing and getting caught up with dinner on the boat. So great to have them aboard! Sunday is spent on those ATV's we scouted out. The day is hot, but we visit the town of Plaka that is situated on the mountains overlooking the port. We enjoy lunch in the fishing village of Klima and then a trip to a lunar beach called Sarakinko.

No cars are allowed in the village of Plaka because of the narrow streets, so we park the ATV's and begin the climb on foot to see the magnificent blue and white village of the type we all think of when Greece comes to mind. We walk the cobbled streets to visit the domed church, and then further up to the top of the Kastro, the rocky peak that rises above the village, to the church. The view is outstanding! Al sums it all up stating, "It's pretty fucking great". Yup, it truly is!

Neil and I get our first glimpse of the fishing village of Klima when we enter the harbour of Milos on the boat, but on the ATV's we get to see it up close and walk along the shoreline in front of the houses. The houses were originally fishermen's homes where they would store their boats in the garages down below. Now, the doors are painted in bright colours and many are rented out to tourists. We eat lunch at the only restaurant in the village which has excellent seafood and service.

Our last stop for the day is the beach at Sarakinko. It is called the lunar beach and the photos tell it all! The greyish-white volcanic rock has been shaped by the waves driven by north winds off the Aegean Sea. Young people are jumping off the high rocks. It takes a lot of courage because there is a significant surge in the water below. Not for me!!! We take a stroll over the rock surface, explore some of the caves, and then head back to the ATV's. The heat is too much for us and for Finnegan. After a bottle of water from the canteen, we head back to the port town to the boat for a refreshing swim!

With strong meltemi winds predicted for the remainder of the week, we decide to search out some anchorages that are recommended for the higher winds. We choose the island of Paros, which means a sail of about 5-6 hours. This will be on Tuesday. Monday will be spent visiting a couple more areas on the island of Milos before the winds roll in, this time by boat! Our first stop in the morning is a couple of hours from the main port and is the beach at Kleftiko, which is known for its caves. It is on the southwest corner of the island.The view is incredible! So many boats are there, including some pretty luxurious-looking super yachts. Once anchored, we dinghy around to see the rock and caves up close. The water is beautiful and warm, so enjoyable! 

The second stop is a beach that can only be reached by boat. It is on the south coast of the island and is called Kalamos Beach. Again, the rock and water are stunning! It is not as busy as the previous stop, so upon arrival we quickly throw together the makings for charcuterie on the beach, along with pink wine and treats for the dog. 

Before too long, all of the boats leave as the sun is setting and we have the anchorage to ourselves. It is truly magical. At Al's suggestion, we dress in white for dinner (which ends up being grilled cheese sandwiches LOL) and we hang out on the foredeck to watch the stars. A truly beautiful experience to share with friends. We are blessed.